Cinque Terre
After skillfully maneuvering a series of tight switchbacks, our bus driver Tony dropped us off in Levanto and Margaret assisted us onto the train that took us to Monterosso, one of the five towns on the coast of the Ligurian Sea that make up the Cinque Terre region. The towns are connected by a series of scenic hiking trails and frequently-running trains. We hastily changed into our bathing suits, eager to begin a vacation from our vacation.
After relaxing a few hours on the beach with towels borrowed from our hotel, we started hiking around the hillside. We discovered rambling stone staircases lined with fragrant vines of jasmine, a crumbling cemetery, and glorious vistas of the crystal blue water. We made our way toward the town center, where some areas were still being repaired from last year's devastating mudslides. A few elderly men were gathered on benches in the town square, and we pondered what town gossip they were discussing as we took yet another gelato break. I had the best flavors I'd tasted so far: honey, pan dulce, and orange peel. We had dinner at a beachside restaurant, where I tried one of the local pasta specialties, trofie al pesto, and chased it with sciacchetra dessert liquor.
After relaxing a few hours on the beach with towels borrowed from our hotel, we started hiking around the hillside. We discovered rambling stone staircases lined with fragrant vines of jasmine, a crumbling cemetery, and glorious vistas of the crystal blue water. We made our way toward the town center, where some areas were still being repaired from last year's devastating mudslides. A few elderly men were gathered on benches in the town square, and we pondered what town gossip they were discussing as we took yet another gelato break. I had the best flavors I'd tasted so far: honey, pan dulce, and orange peel. We had dinner at a beachside restaurant, where I tried one of the local pasta specialties, trofie al pesto, and chased it with sciacchetra dessert liquor.
The next day, we bought train tickets to go to Riomaggiore, the southern-most town of the Cinque Terre. From there, we hiked the Via dell'Amore, a paved seaside trail lined with fence that romantic couples from all over have decorated with padlocks engraved with their names. We didn't leave a lock, but we did add our names to one of the Oklahoma state drawings left by a previous Okie traveler. Once we arrived in Manarola, we wandered around, enjoying hills covered in grapevines, lemon trees, and poppies. We took a boat to Vernazza and had lunch in a restaurant perched atop a cliff.
Later that evening, we had a goodbye dinner for our bus driver Tony, as we would be arriving at our final destination the next day. He and some of the more adventurous eaters in our group ordered the specialty at Ristorante Belvedere. It consisted of a large clay pot into which was baked every seafood known to man along with a lot of broth. It was served dramatically by a waiter wielding the vessel using oven mitts to upend it, spilling out whole lobsters, crabs, eel, fish, and octopus into the bowl. I opted for the black & white spaghetti with mussels. It was a meal befitting the skill and charm of our wonderful chauffeur, who would be missed. Next: Rome.
Later that evening, we had a goodbye dinner for our bus driver Tony, as we would be arriving at our final destination the next day. He and some of the more adventurous eaters in our group ordered the specialty at Ristorante Belvedere. It consisted of a large clay pot into which was baked every seafood known to man along with a lot of broth. It was served dramatically by a waiter wielding the vessel using oven mitts to upend it, spilling out whole lobsters, crabs, eel, fish, and octopus into the bowl. I opted for the black & white spaghetti with mussels. It was a meal befitting the skill and charm of our wonderful chauffeur, who would be missed. Next: Rome.